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28 August 2009

The Chinese Connection


Have you ever ridden a train through the High Sierras? Through mile-long tunnels and along tracks that cling to mountainsides overlooking deep canyons?

The most spectacular and dangerous routes were hacked out of solid rock, by hand, by small (110 lb), tough, energetic Chinese laborers who hauled off the earth and rock in tiny loads and, as winter approached, worked 3-shift, 24-hour days.

Back in 1865 these “strange little men with their dishpan straw hats, pigtails, and floppy blue pajamas” (according to one railroad owner) proved themselves the equal of burly Irish immigrants. At first, the railroad bosses judged the Chinese too frail and unmechanical for such work. [Had they known history, of course, they might have recognized the tremendous grit and cleverness of the Chinese, exhibited in the building of the Great Wall (also hacked by hand out of mountainsides) and the invention of clocks, gunpowder, paper, ceramic glaze, etc.]

The little Chinese men--actually farm boys from Canton--came to California originally to rework tailings of gold mines left by the 49ers. Finally formed into railroad crews of from 12 to 20 men with their own cook and Chinese headman, the men proved quick to learn, slow to complain, and punctual! (Apparently Irish workers were a headache--promoting strikes, drinking up their earnings, and brawling.)

The Chinese amazed everyone: they didn’t strike; they didn’t get drunk; they bathed every day and drank boiled tea instead of the dirty water that sickened everyone else. They did gamble and occasionally had fights among themselves, but overall they were looked on as disciplined, efficient, reliable working machines. The railroad bosses called them “Celestials.” (The Irish were called Terrestrials.)

Clearing the path for the laying of railroad track encouraged competition among crews. Fifty-seven miles from Sacramento, the Central Pacific Chinese crew ran into a shale mass in the flank of the Sierra, 200 feet above the gorge of the American River. Track would have to be laid along a ledge with no footholds, 1400 feet above the raging river below.

The Irish took one look and began protesting because it was so dangerous. The Chinese took over and triumphed. Lowered down the face of the cliffs in wicker baskets, the Chinese crews pounded holes in the rock, stuffed them with black powder, and set fuses. They were then hauled up out of danger, and when the smoke cleared the hunks of rocky mountainsides had come tumbling down. The Chinese crews lost not a single man during this dangerous enterprise; they were paid $35 per month and that didn’t include food or lodging. They lived in on-site wind-whipped huts or dank caves and ate Chinese delicacies shipped from San Francisco and prepared by the Chinese camp cook.

Blizzards in the winter of 1866-67 all but stopped progress, but the Chinese continued to bore tunnels through solid rock, even though the men were often cut off by snow and had to eat stockpiled food. Because of the constant avalanches, tunnels were cut under the snow for access from lodging to work site.

The Great Track-Laying Race occurred after this bitter winter when both railroads, the Union Pacific and the Central Pacific, were to connect in the desert. By this time, the Central Pacific crews included Irish men. For a time the separate Irish and the Chinese crews competed in clearing grading, with neither side warning the other of impending explosive blasts.

The Great Race between the Union Pacific and the Central Pacific began when each railroad owner wanted to beat the other to the connecting. Guess who won?

The Central Pacific’s combined Irish-Chinese crews managed to lay 10 miles of track in 12 hours and thus proved their superiority. The burly Irishmen would lug the iron track sections and drop them into position, and the Chinese would hammer and rivet them in place, by which time there would be another section of track waiting.

Thus was America built.

Source: The Railroaders [The Old West]; Time-Life Books, New York.

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4 Comments:

Blogger Amanda Elyot said...

Great post, Lynna! I'm fascinated by that aspect of American history (ever read Mark Twain's "Roughing It?")

A couple of summers ago my husband and I took the Narrow Gauge Railroad train from Durango to Silverton, Colorado and back. Several of the cars are the ones that were original to the 1870s and 1880s (we splurged for seats in the Cinco Animas "Presidential" parlor car from 1883 (think mahogany backed, velvet chairs and damasked curtains), which is now the caboose, so the guests in that car get the best view). We also had complimentary tea, coffee, hot chocolate, and hot spiced cider, plus pastries all day!

http://www.durangotrain.com/ and

http://www.durangotrain.com/files/presidential_class.jpg

It was an amazing trip and really got me thinking about how the track was built into the, at times precipitous, mountainside. Thanks so much for the history lesson! I have an even greater appreciation of the railroad now.

10:08 AM  
Blogger Devaki said...

This is an amazing story of two groups of immigrants from opposite sides of the globe making good in the US.

11:12 PM  
Blogger Tracy Grant said...

Wonderful post, Lynna! This is an important piece of U.S. history that often doesn't seem to get the attention it deserves.

8:59 PM  
Blogger Lynna Banning said...

Amanda,
My husband and I also took the Durango-Silverton
railway... I found I couldn't look down into those incredible chasms... made me seasick!
Accomplishments like these make me very proud of the human brain and grit.

8:31 AM  

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